March in Paris, pt. 2: Montmartre


Rue des Abbesses

Breakfast, Rue des Abbesses

Blue Door, Rue la Vieuville


L'Amour est Mort


Bread run, Rue Caulaincourt

Gate, Rue Caulaincourt

Long Lunch, Le Nazir

Salade du Berger, Le Nazir

The siren call of my old neighborhood became impossible to resist after only one day.

So I gave in, and we took the 80 bus from the 7eme to Place de Clichy. In terms of favorite bus routes, the 80 is my favorite. It snakes all the way up to Montmartre from the left bank, taking the swanky Avenue Montaigne, around the 8eme, past Saint-Lazare, and all the way up to my little village on the hill via Rue Caulaincourt. Between that route and the 95, which plops you more centrally in Saint-Germain, I could get anywhere I needed to go when I lived there. I like the buses more than the metro; the metro is generally more efficient, and, given Parisian traffic, undoubtedly faster, but you get to see the city from the bus. And there is nothing like taking the 80 south and crossing the Pont de l’Alma and seeing the Eiffel Tower from your seat. Like, pop! There she is!

So we went to Montmartre, and walked and walked and walked. Because that is what you do there. You climb the winding, steep streets, you make your way to the top of Sacré-Cœur to take in the view. We stopped in the church itself (something I admittedly hadn’t done in years) and got to hear mass in about six different languages (the priest switched from Spanish, to French, to Italian, to Hebrew, to Arabic while we made our way around the periphery of the monument). We rewarded ourselves with lunch at Le Nazir, my favorite salad with a poached egg and copious lardons and baked wheels of goat cheese thankfully unchanged. I showed my mom my old apartment, giving my sweet little balcony a wistful wave from the street.

On our way to Ladurée near Madeline (we took the metro) my mom said to me, “I can see why you love it. It’s a fabulous neighborhood.” And it so is. And not just because you get an impressive thigh workout just from exploring, either. That little pocket of the lower part of la butte was my home, and will be again one day, too.

2 thoughts on “March in Paris, pt. 2: Montmartre

  1. I know exactly where that Pharmacie and green fountain is in Montmartre! I was standing there in June last year – sigh! I feel like I am walking the streets with you, I always look forward to your beautiful photos from Paris. Also, I especially love the second to last photo of the man reading the paper and drinking his wine. That is a perfect moment. xo

  2. Montmartre is a REAL neighborhood. I can see living there and relearning to shop as we did when I was a child—a stop for a baguette (OK it was a rye bread or kaiser rolls back then), a stop for cheeses, a stop for meats, as stop for fruits and vegetables. Darn, I forgot dessert!
    Let’s be honest. The real reason we took the 80 bus from 7eme to Place de Clichy was so that I could rest up for a journey to Mt Everest. Le Nazir fascinated me. Midday and men are standing by the bar with a glass of wine or beer and slowly peeling off, one by one, for a table to dine. They were there when we came and they were still there when we left….living life.
    I’m so glad I got to see the apartment long after you lived on that alley, the dinner where you and Jeff celebrated your engagement, Sacré-Cœur, and all the lovely shops. No kidding we had to go to Ladurée…I needed to take in some sugar and a cappuccino.

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